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  SHACKLETON'S FORGOTTEN EXPEDITION

  SHACKLETON'S

  FORGOTTEN EXPEDITION

  The Voyage of the Nimrod

  Beau Riffenburgh

  B L O O M S B U R Y

  Copyright © 2005 by Beau Riffenburgh

  All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the publisher except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews. For information address Bloomsbury Publishing, 175 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10010.

  All photographs in this book are reproduced by permission of the Scott Polar Research Institute (SPRI), unless otherwise indicated.

  Published by Bloomsbury Publishing, New York and London Distributed to the trade by Holtzbrinck Publishers

  All papers used by Bloomsbury Publishing are natural, recyclable products made from wood grown in well-managed forests. The manufacturing processes conform to the environmental regulations of the country of origin.

  The Library of Congress has cataloged the hardcover edition as follows:

  Riffenburgh, Beau, 1955-

  Shackleton's forgotten expedition : the voyage of the Nimrod / by Beau Riffenburgh.

  p. cm.

  eISBN: 978-1-582-34611-3

  1. Shackleton, Ernest Henry, Sir, 1874-1922—Travel—Antarctica. 2. British Antarctic Expedition (1907-1909). 3. Antarctica—Discovery and exploration—British. I. Title.

  G8501907.S52 R54 2004

  919.8'904—dc22

  2004011999

  First published in the United States by Bloomsbury Publishing in 2004 This paperback edition published in 2005

  1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2

  Typeset by Hewer Text Ltd, Edinburgh

  Printed in the United States of America by Quebecor World Fairfield

  Jacket images:

  Top front cover photo: The first attainment of the South Magnetic Pole. From left: Alistair Mackay, Edgeworth David and Douglas Mawson. David is pulling the string to snap the picture. (Reproduced by permission of the Scott Polar Research Institute.)

  Bottom front cover photo: Nimrod steaming away to a safe distance when the ice was breaking up around Cape Royds. (Reproduced by permission of the Scott Polar Research Institute.)

  Back cover photo: At Cape Royds before the completion of the hut. From left: James Murray, George Marston, Frank Wild, Sir Philip Brocklehurst, Harry Dunlop and Ernest Joyce. (Reproduced by permission of Johnny Van Haeften, London.)

  To my wife, Liz,

  who has been an inspiration

  for this book and so much else

  CONTENTS

  Maps

  Preface

  Acknowledgements

  Members of the

  British Antarctic Expedition, 1907-09

  Prologue

  1 A Race for Life

  2 A Product of Empire

  3 Life at Sea, Love on Land

  4 War or an Unknown Place?

  5 The Making of the

  British National Antarctic Expedition

  6 The Great White South

  7 The Southern Journey

  8 A Square Peg and a Round Hole

  9 A Soul Whipped on by the Wanderfire

  10 Nimrod

  11 Underway at Last

  12 A Promise Broken

  13 Cape Royds

  14 New Worlds to Conquer

  15 Waiting Out the Winter

  16 Across the Great Ice Barrier

  17 The Western Party

  18 Nearest the Pole

  19 The Wandering Pole

  20 Forced March

  21 Rescue

  22 Heroes Return

  Epilogue

  Glossary

  Notes

  Bibliography

  Index

  PREFACE

  In recent years, the fame of Ernest Shackleton has spread beyond the relatively small community of polar scholars and enthusiasts, and he has captivated the imagination of a world-wide audience. Books, television documentaries and cinematic dramas have told the story of the Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition, and Shackleton's heroic exploits when his ship Endurance was caught in the ice of the Weddell Sea and crushed. Everyone now seems to know that he held his party together on the ice and brought his men safely to Elephant Island. And the tales of his open-boat journey to South Georgia, his crossing of that island's mountains, and the subsequent rescue of his party have been repeated until they are a firm part of the collective consciousness of the English-speaking world.

  Yet, remarkably little has been recorded about what most polar historians agree were actually Shackleton's most significant geographical accomplishments, greatest deeds and most momentous decisions. These were all attained on the first expedition that he led, the grandly named British Antarctic Expedition of 1907-09. One should not be confused by Shackleton's title for the expedition, however. It was very much a private affair - under-funded, not backed by major geographical and scientific organisations, and sailing on a tiny former whaler called Nimrod. Never the less, its members not only achieved remarkable scientific results, but became the first to climb Mount Erebus, the first to attain the South Magnetic Pole, and the pioneers of the original route to the centre of the Antarctic continent, where a high plateau is home to the South Pole.

  It was for the magnificent exploits of this expedition that Shackleton was knighted and received his greatest acclaim during his lifetime. But such glory was fleeting. Three decades after Shackleton's death, his daughter Cecily told the story of how:

  A short time ago the postman came here and said, 'I see the name Shackleton. Are you by any chance related to the cricketer?' I said, 'No, Fm afraid not.' He said, 'Oh, bad luck, I thought there was somebody connected with somebody interesting living here.'

  Shackleton's return to celebrity status did not begin until the mid-1980s with the excellent biography by Roland Huntford. His standing with the public skyrocketed after Caroline Alexander's The Endurance, which accompanied an exhibition that opened in New York in 1999. Despite all the subsequent interest throughout the world, however, Shackleton's British Antarctic Expedition has remained surprisingly little known.

  This is the first study of that expedition since Shackleton's account, The Heart of the Antarctic, was published in 1909. It is based on original sources, and, with so many documents having emerged in recent decades, it is the first time that all the known, extant diaries and correspondence of the members of the expedition have been consulted. These sources have allowed new understanding and interpretations, not just of Shackleton, but of the expedition in its entirety, for it is the whole expedition, not just one man, that is the subject of this book.

  The use of original journals, letters and papers allows a historical authenticity not possible when dealing with secondary materials. Therefore, in quoting from these sources, the idiosyncrasies of punctuation and spelling have been retained. It is for similar reasons that throughout this book contemporary publication names and place-names have been used. References to and from any newspaper have used the paper's name at that time, rather than one to which it might later have been changed. This includes the use of The and the city of publication if they were officially part of the name. Likewise, what is now named the Ross Ice Shelf is called - as it was a century ago - the Great Ice Barrier, and the Beardmore Glacier is known, as it was by its discoverers, as the Great Glacier. In addition, Oslo appears under its former name of Christiania.

  The original sources have also been used regarding units of measurement. Temperatures are recorded in Fahrenheit, as they were by the British Empire's explorers. The term 'degrees of frost', much used at that time,
referred to the degrees below 32°F, the equivalent of o°C (so that 'fifty degrees of frost' equals — 18°F). Similarly, the altitudes on the journeys to the Polar Plateau appear in feet (one foot being equivalent to 0.3048 metres), which is doubly confusing to one looking at a modern topographic map because most of the measurements of the time were, in fact, inaccurate.

  Generally during the British Antarctic Expedition, distances on land were measured in statute miles, rather than in nautical or geographical miles, as were commonly used at sea or by some other explorers, such as Robert Falcon Scott or Roald Amundsen, on land. Whereas the statute mile is 5,280 feet (1.61 kilometres), the geographical mile is 6,080 feet, which is 11/7 statute miles or 1.85 kilometres. The geographical mile is based on one-sixtieth of a degree, or one minute of latitude, and for a brief period the members of Shackleton's party temporarily switched to keeping records in this system. As will be seen in this account, this changeover was made for the most transparent of reasons.

  ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

  During the planning, research and writing of this book, I have been the recipient of the generosity and good graces of numerous individuals and organisations. My thanks are firstly due to my wife, Dr Elizabeth Cruwys, for her encouragement, enthusiasm and patience, as well as her insightful assessments and editorial recommendations.

  This story would never have been written without the efforts of Sara Fisher of A.M. Heath, who had total faith in it, and who, with help from her colleague Bill Hamilton, found a home for Nimrod with Bloomsbury. There, Bill Swainson helped mould it into its final shape, and Sarah Marcus steered it through the numerous stages of the publishing process. To each of these, I am profoundly grateful.

  The majority of the research was conducted at the Scott Polar Research Institute, University of Cambridge, where four individuals in particular made valuable contributions. Professor Julian Dowdes-well, the Director of the Institute, gave the project full support from the start, and helped overcome hurdles both real and theoretical. Caroline Gunn never failed to supply me immediately with archival materials, however inconvenient or troublesome the request, and presented me more than once with little-known gems of her own discovery. Robert Headland guided me through many unforeseen snares of research and publishing. And Lucy Martin made invaluable contributions to the book's photographic section. I sincerely thank each of them.

  My great appreciation is also extended to my long-time friend and editorial adviser Ian Stone, who read and commented on the manuscript, showing there are many things I have still to learn from him.

  Anyone who makes a serious study of Ernest Shackleton or his expeditions cannot help but be grateful to Margery and James Fisher. Almost half a century ago, while preparing their excellent biography, the Fishers compiled a remarkable set of typescripts of diaries, correspondence and interviews of Shackleton, his family, friends, fellow expedition members and many other individuals. These papers are held by the Scott Polar Research Institute, and form the most valuable collection of its kind in the world.

  I also thank Roland Huntford, author of the definitive biography of Shackleton, for generously sharing with me his vast knowledge of Shackleton, the British Antarctic Expedition and polar history.

  My warm thanks go to Johnny Van Haeften - one of the most enthusiastic and generous contributors to this book - who, with his wife Sarah and daughter Sophie, hosted and encouraged me at an early stage. Johnny not only shared with me the papers of his great-uncle Sir Philip Brocklehurst and a multitude of stories about the Brocklehurst clan, but contributed one of the most evocative photographs.

  I much appreciate the kind help of the Hon. Alexandra Shackleton, and thank her for opening Shackleton family material and giving me permission to quote from it.

  I also wish to express my gratitude to Dr David M. Wilson, who discussed his great-uncle Edward Wilson and valuable insights obtained in his own research; Professor G.E. Fogg, who shared his immense knowledge regarding the history of Antarctic science and the significance of the scientific results of the British Antarctic Expedition; and Douglas Wamsley, who guided my research into photography in the polar regions.

  I am very grateful for the help that I received from the talented husband-and-wife writing team of Diana and Mike Preston, who were also an important factor in launching this project, although they did not realise it at the time. Bob and Phyllis Cruwys also gave constant support throughout the project, for which I am most grateful.

  My vision of much of the historical background and context for this book owes an immense amount to the writings of Professor John M. MacKenzie, one of the world's foremost scholars in the study of the relationship between imperialism and popular culture.

  I made extensive use of the Library at the Scott Polar Research Institute, and I would particularly like to thank Shirley Sawtell for all of her help, as well as her colleagues Sharon Banks, William Mills and Rebecca Stancombe. For additional friendly help and access to documents, I thank the Cambridge University Library; the Alexander Turn-bull Library (Wellington, New Zealand); the British Library; the British Newspaper Library, Colindale; the Caird Library of the National Maritime Museum Greenwich; the National Army Museum (London); the Public Record Office (London); and the Seeley Library of the Faculty of History, Cambridge.

  My sincere appreciation is extended for generous assistance given by Jean Bray (Sudeley Castle); Dr Louise Crossley (Australian Antarctic Division); David Harrowfield; Janet Morris (Emmanuel College, Cambridge); Mark Pharaoh (Mawson Centre, Science Centre, South Australian Museum, Adelaide); Professor Patrick G. Quilty (School of Earth Sciences, University of Tasmania); Dr Steve and Anne Riffenburgh; Professor David W.H. Walton (British Antarctic Survey); Dr Frances Willmoth (Jesus College, Cambridge); and David Yelverton.

  In addition, I thank Tracy Bentley (Copyright Office, The British Library); Lieutenant Colonel Roger J. Binks (The Royal Scots Dragoon Guards (Carabiniers & Greys)); Jennifer Broomhead (State Library of New South Wales); Andrew Davis and Daphne Knott (National Maritime Museum Greenwich); Victoria Hobbs and Tom LloydWilliams (A.M. Heath); Tim Lovell-Smith and Sean McMahon (Alexander Turnbull Library); Matthew March and Christine Whent (Royal Hospital School); Stephen Martin (Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales); Alastair Massie (National Army Museum); Leif Mills; Dr Geoff Parks (Jesus College, Cambridge); Jacqueline Pitcher (British Newspaper Library); Elize Rowan and Geoff Swinney (National Museums of Scotland); Jonathan Shackleton; JoAnne Smith (Canterbury Museum); Peter Speak; and Roland Symons (Monkton Combe Senior School). I also wish to recall the interest in the topic expressed by the late Cliff Wynne.

  I am grateful to the following for permission to use copyright or privately held material: The Earl Attlee, for the writings of his grandfather Lord Clement Attlee; the Canterbury Museum (Christchurch, New Zealand), for the diary of J.G. Rutherford; Mrs G.E. Dowler, for the diary of her father Æneas Mackintosh; Sir Richard Eyre, for the diaries of his grandfather Admiral Sir Charles Royds; Mrs Anne M. Fright, for the memoirs of her uncle, Frank Wild; Alister Harbord, for the diary of his grandfather Commander A.E. Harbord; Roland Hunt-ford, for quotations from his book Shackleton; the Mawson Centre, Science Centre, South Australian Museum, for the diaries of Douglas Mawson; the National Maritime Museum Greenwich, for the correspondence of Ernest Shackleton to Elspeth Beardmore (Lady Invernairn); the National Museums of Scotland (Edinburgh), for a diary of Dr Alistair Mackay; Ms Jenya Osborne and Ms Ingrid Davis, for the writings of John King Davis; Sir Anthony Rawlinson, for the diaries and correspondence of Lord Rawlinson; the Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers), for two quotations from the diary of Dr Eric Marshall; the Scott Polar Research Institute, for the diaries and papers of Ernest Shackleton, Frank Wild, Raymond Priestley, Dr Edward Wilson, Captain Robert Falcon Scott, Sir Clements Markham, Margery and James Fisher, and numerous others, as well as the majority of photographs; the Hon. Alexandra Shackleton, for a variety of diaries and papers, including those of her
grandfather Ernest Shackleton; Mr Neil Silverman, for the diary of Sir Philip Brocklehurst; the Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales, for the memoirs of Frank Wild and a diary of Ernest Shackleton; and Mr Johnny Van Haeften, for the correspondence of Sir Philip Brocklehurst and one of the photographs.

  Acknowledgement of help does not imply endorsement of the views expressed in this book. These, together with any misinterpretations or errors, are my responsibility alone. If I have overlooked anybody, or failed to trace the correct copyright holders, I hope they will forgive me.

  Finally, I would like to record my special thanks to my parents, Ralph and Angelyn Riffenburgh, who have encouraged me and given me unconditional support for much longer than simply the period of this book. My debt to them is incalculable.

  MEMBERS OF THE BRITISH

  ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION, 1907-09

  PROLOGUE

  He saw nothing. Or virtually nothing - there, in the far distance, receding by the moment, was what several hours before had been recognisable as a ship, their ship, Nimrod. Now it was only a speck plying its way north, and he knew that to those aboard he would no longer be a solitary figure standing on a small rise silhouetted against the sky. Rather he was lost in a looming background of ice and rock; something left behind as they headed home to civilisation, safety and warmth; someone, for the time being, forgotten.